A short walk from the Grand Palace is a pleasant spot for lunch, the S&P , in the Maharaj Pier Building (1st floor, Maharaj Road ; 66-2-222-7026), part of a well-regarded local chain. Deftly prepared dishes include steamed sea bass, soft shell crab and delicious fresh fruit drinks. Lunch for two should run about 1,000 baht. Ferry stop: Maharaj.

7) GLIDING AROUND THE CITY

For an up-close view of Bangkok , take a ride on one of the dozens of long-tail boats that navigate the Chao Phraya and its surrounding tributaries. As you glide past the city's traditional stilt houses or wind your way through one of the floating markets, you'll get a quick sense of the city's rhythms and traditions. You can hire a long-tail boat at several stops along the river, including the Tha Chang ferry stop. Expect to pay about 100 baht per person.

4 p.m. 

There are dozens of wats (temples) in the city, but there is perhaps no better one-two punch than Wat Pho and Wat Arun . You could easily spend an entire day wandering the sprawling temple complex of Wat Pho, off of Thanon Thai Wang (admission: 20 baht) admiring the mesmerizing tile work and the beautifully tended gardens.

It's not exactly a tranquil spot - you'll spend much of your time darting among Japanese bus tour groups, Thai schoolchildren on a field trip and camera-wielding visitors from around the world - but it is worth visiting because of the famed reclining Buddha. (Amazing!) Then, take the commuter boat (3.50 baht) across the river to Wat Arun, a somewhat downscaled version of Angor Wat, with its own dizzying climb to the top (admission: 20 baht). Ferry stop: Tha Tien (N8).

6:30 p.m. 

9) Rooftop Bar on 62th floor

Visitors with acrophobia might want to skip a visit to 

Vertigo Grill and Moon Bar , the aptly named rooftop bar at the Banyan Tree hote.  But others will be dazzled by the incomparable views from this open-air perch set 61 stories above the sprawling Bangkok metropolis. Stifle a scream ("Don't jump!") as other patrons lean over the railing to peer down at the city below, and instead order another icy martini to calm your nerves. Skytrain stop: Sala Daeng.

8 p.m. 

10) SAFE-SEX DINNER

It's not every restaurant that greets you with an out-of-season Christmas tree decorated with brightly colored condoms and then offers more condoms on your way out. But then not every restaurant combines Thai cuisine with safe-sex education. That just about sums up Cabbages and Condoms (10 Sukhumvit Soi 12; 66-2-229-4610), a lively spot serving up simple, yet well-prepared local specialties (deep-fried chicken wrapped in pandanus leaf; sweet and sour grouper) in a decidedly eccentric setting. Dinner for two, with wine, shouldn't run more than around 1,600 baht. Skytrain stop: Nana.

Day 3

10 a .m. 

11) MORNING STROLL

Start the day with a walk down leafy Soi Rambuttri , a somewhat bucolic alternative to the tourist-heavy Kho San Road . Grab some freshly squeezed orange juice from one of the many street vendors, shop for knickknacks among the web-like alleyways and then finish your morning with a leisurely ferry ride on the Chao Phraya , watching the city reawaken. Ferry stop: Phra Arthit (N13)

12:30 p.m. 

12) GONE BUT NOT FORGOTTEN

Exhibit A for the seductive power of Bangkok is the Jim Thompson House. This artfully designed complex of six teak buildings is the former home of an American architect-turned-intelligence-officer who was posted to the Thai capital in the waning days of World War II and then moved there permanently. Thompson disappeared in the jungles of Malaysia in 1967, but his house remains as a monument to traditional Thai architecture. Admission is 100 baht. Afterward, have lunch in the lovely riverside restaurant, where dishes include refreshing Thai salads (120 to 180 baht). Skytrain stop: National Stadium.

THE BASICS

bThe secret to getting around Bangkok comes down to two things: water and sky. Between the efficient (and incredibly cheap) ferry system that navigates the Chao Phraya, with colored flags designating express and local stops, and the equally efficient (and almost as cheap) Skytrain, you can get almost anywhere you want without once getting stuck in a cab. In fact, a good rule of thumb for visiting Bangkok might be this: If you can't there by boat or by train, don't go.

THE BONUS

Here is a website that has done something new and useful

1. A Database showing the "best Tourist Transport stations" which are linked to tour zone books, and "best nearby venues"
2. They include Photo Database - eBooks and more
3. They offer a service to provide P.A. (Personal Assistant) or Concierge - with the slogan "get the most use a Host"